Twin needle hemming of knits can change everything by giving a finished product that looks professional and has built-in stretch. But the “tunneling” effect—that unsightly ridge that appears between the two parallel rows of stitching—is the curse of twin needle sewing. You may overcome this typical difficulty and consistently produce perfect results with the correct methods and tools on how to avoid tunnelling when using a twin needle.
Determining the Root Causes of Tunneling
Tunneling is the formation of an unfavorable ridge by the fabric bunching up between the two needles. For a few main reasons, this may occur:
Tension Issues: A typical issue is too tight needle tension. Too tight pulling of the top thread causes the fabric to pucker and tunnel.
The fabric factors: More likely to tunnel than heavier, more stable textiles are lightweight, elastic knits. Knits’ delicate nature increases their susceptibility to deformation under the twin needle.
The Troubles with Needles Tunneling might result from the incorrect needle type or size. Sewing knits calls either ballpoint or stretch needles, and the needle size needs to correspond with the weight of the cloth.
Tunneling is more likely when stitches are made too near to the fabric edge or over uneven layers.
How to Avoid Tunneling When Using a Twin Needle
Let us now explore the remedies after identifying the typical offenders. Try these pointers and techniques to use a twin needle with less or no tunneling:
Raise the Tension
Often the secret to combating tunneling is to strike the ideal needle tension balance. Reducing the top thread tension first will make the fabric sit flatter between the needles. Play about with different tension levels and observe how the stitches and cloth look.
Select the Appropriate Tools
Make an investment in a good ballpoint or stretch twin needle made especially for knit fabrics. These needles’ rounded point glides through cloth without snagging or making holes. Select a needle size—usually between 60 and 90—that corresponds to the weight of your fabric.
Get the Fabric Stabilized
Tunneling can often be greatly avoided by applying a fusible stretch interfacing to the hem allowance. As you stitch, the stabilizer keeps the cloth smooth and flat. An even more successful option is to use a readily removable water-soluble stabilizer after sewing.
Modify the Long Stitch
Because they keep the fabric more closely sewed together, shorter stitch lengths typically lessen tunneling. Observing the general look and stretch of the fabric, start with a 2.5–3.0 mm stitch length and make necessary adjustments.
Put on Your Walking Foot
For twin needle stitching, a walking foot—also referred to as an even-feed foot—changes everything. Tunnelling can be avoided by the uniform feeding of the fabric through the machine by this specialised foot.
Explore Thread Selections
Changing your ordinary sewing thread for a more specialist one might have a significant impact. A heavier nylon thread in the bobbin can help to regulate the tension and lessen the tunneling effect.
Become an Expert Threader
Twin needle sewing depends critically on proper threading. To prevent tangling, thread each needle separately and keep the threads apart. For equal tension distribution, raise the presser foot before threading to release the tension discs.
Common Fixes To Help
Even with the best techniques, you may still not master how to avoid tunnelling when using a twin needle and encounter the occasional bout of tunneling. In such case, don’t give up; utilize these troubleshooting advice to get back on track:
Check the Needle: Look for damage or dullness on your twin needles. Should they need to be replaced, worn needles might cause fabric deformation.
Analyse the Thread Path Verify that the thread is not tangling or snagging as it passes through the machine. Make a second pass at the threading, being especially careful with the tension discs and thread guide.
Always test on a scrap piece of the same fabric before sewing your finished item. Before you commit to the real deal, this will let you to adjust your settings and find any possible problems.
Accept the Texture: If all else fails, embrace the tunneling effect and include it into your design. To highlight the ridges and give your stitching product a distinctive texture, raise the needle tension.
Twin Needle Bobbin Thread Not Zigzagging
A top thread tension problem is most likely the reason your twin needle bobbin thread isn’t zigzagging. The following procedures will help you troubleshoot and fix the issue:
Make that there is good seating of both top threads between the upper tension discs. One thread not under stress might make the bobbin thread appear straight on the underside.
Make sure the machine was threaded with the presser foot up. The tension discs are then free to pass through the threads. Lowering the foot shuts the discs and may impede the right amount of tension.
With one spool feeding clockwise and the other counterclockwise, try threading the two top threads in opposing directions. Tangling can be avoided in part by this.
Up till you observe the bobbin thread creating a correct zigzag pattern on the bottom of the fabric, gradually raise the top thread tension. Watch out not to overtighten, as this can pucker.
Should your machine have one, use it. Particularly when sewing knits, this helps feed the fabric uniformly and can stop skipped stitches.
Use a twin needle only if your machine is configured to stitch straight, not zigzag. The strands can tangle at a zigzag setting.
If the problem continues, try using a different kind of bobbin—like a plastic one. Tension difficulties can occasionally arise with metal bobbins.
Can You Use a Twin Needle with a Walking Foot
Yes, you can sew knits using a walking foot and a twin needle. The main ideas are enumerated here.
In order to avoid puckering or tunneling when sewing with a twin needle, use a walking foot.
For stretchy knits to have a smooth, polished twin needle hem, the walking foot makes sure the top and bottom layers of fabric pass through the machine at the same speed.
A button or setting on some sewing machine models even activates the walking foot feature when using a twin needle. This guarantees correct formation of the stitches.
The one drawback is that, because a walking foot is made to feed fabric just in one direction, you can’t usually backstitch with it. Rather, by starting and ending with a few reverse stitches, you may secure the stitches.
When using a twin needle and walking foot, experiment with your particular machine and fabric to find the ideal tension, stitch length, and other settings.
See also: How tight should compression socks be
Mastering Twin Needle Sewing
Conquering the twin needle can be a journey, but with patience and persistence on how to avoid tunnelling when using a twin needle. In short order, you’ll be sewing like a pro. Be ready to explore and modify your methods as each cloth and machine is unique.
When things don’t go as planned, don’t be scared to troubleshoot; embrace the learning process and applaud your accomplishments. Every time you grab your twin needle, you’ll be well on your way to producing faultless, expert-looking results with these techniques in your sewing toolbox.
